[Aztlan] Squash
Nick Hopkins
nhopkins at mailer.fsu.edu
Sat Jul 7 14:00:15 CDT 2007
Dick (et al.)-- Squash is an essential part of the "Mesoamerican
triad/triumvirate/trinity" (corn, beans, squash) because of the way
it complements the other two, in the fields as well as
nutritionally. In the fields, corn stalks support bean vines, squash
spreads out along the ground to shade out weeds. In the diet, the
starches of maize are complemented by the protein of beans, and the
squashes add critical amino acids to make this a complete balanced
diet. Throw in some chiles for vitamins, and Bob's your uncle (I
threw that in so that maybe someone would explain to me what it means!).
In addition, squash, like maize, has the advantage of producing
edible parts all through the growing season, not just at the final
harvest. For maize, you can eat the emerging baby ears, the
"roasting ear" with soft kernels, or use the hardened kernels of the
mature, dry ear. Different recipes pertain to each of these stages
of production. For squash, you can eat the growing tips of the plant
(steamed, a real delicacy, like asparagus), the flowers (in soups and
stews, or cooked in sauces for tacos), or the fruit (and, for some
varieties, the dried seeds). So you can eat fresh parts for at least
half the year and dried seeds the other half.
And you don't necessarily need a huge amount of seeds, since a major
use is as a thickener for sauces, a handful at a time (e.g., my
destined-to-be-famous "Bachelor's green mole"; Herdez salsa verde
cooked in a little oil, thickened with ground squash seeds, thinned
with chicken broth, and reduced to the right thickness; heat and
serve over pieces of factory roasted chicken; measures on request, if
you're one of those cooks that has to have measures).
Of course people were eating a great variety of plants other than
those grown in the milpa (and still do). Especially important are
all the greens gathered in the forests and fields, as well as
mushrooms and other fungi. And there is always the house garden...
Anyway, there is plenty of variety available in the environment, and
add in seasonal variation (and special feast days) and it doesn't get
boring.
Nick Hopkins
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