[Aztlan] Mixed Messages in Mexico

Tue Jun 23 09:19:38 CDT 2009

On New Year's eve, trying to map what had once been a trade route between the Valles Centrales of Oaxaca and the coast, we drove to San Pedro y San Pablo Ayutla to cross the mountains to Ixtepec. The citizens of Ayutla and its neighbor, Tamazulapam, had been machete-ing each other over land and water rights for generations, but things had heated up and wells had been poisoned and farmers gone missing. To keep them apart, like fussy children, Federal police had been encamped at the pass between them for nearly a year. Driving past the police camp, there were still tinsel and Christmas decorations looped around the mess tent, and, although there were lots of rifles and boots and scowls, someone was washing his hair in a waterfall, and it was hard to be too worried about a bunch of bored, soapy guys who liked to decorate with tinsel.

----- Forwarded Message -----
From: "Mark C" <dustmop at hotmail.com>
To: "Foundation for Adv. of Mesoamerican Studies" <aztlan at lists.famsi.org>
Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 9:31:56 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: [Aztlan] Aztlan Digest, Vol 43, Issue 21

Listeros:
Unfortunately, it seems there is really no guarantee that anywhere is free of corruption or interruption of travel in this day and age. The last time my wife and I went to the Yucatan we left Tulum planning on driving to Coba in a rented VW bug. When we got to the turnoff which would take us up to Coba there were Mexican soldiers with rifles, who looked to be very young teenagers, who would not let us pass and would not explain why. I thought later that they must have been waiting for us to offer a "mordida" but since we did not, they would not let us pass. Quite a disappointment for our plans on that trip. Another time that I felt uncomfortable with lots of military around carrying automatic weapons was back in 1995 in Guatemala, but I was on a bus so as was said, we were not bothered. I am pretty well leaving the traveling outside of the U.S. to others nowadays.
Mark Cheney

--Forwarded Message Attachment--
From: omansky at gmail.com
Subject: [Aztlan] Mexico's Message
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2009 20:21:36 -0400
To: Aztlan at lists.famsi.org

While it may be inexpensive to travel to Mexico now, there may be
other complicating factors.  I just returned from 3 months of
fieldwork and a faculty-led study abroad trip in Guatemala and El
Salvador.  Driving my pickup through Mexico, I had several problems
with corrupt local police, particularly in Poza Rica and Reynosa.  I
was pulled over for various made up reasons.  In reality, my only
violation was being obviously white with US tags on my vehicle.  It
cost me hundreds of dollars in blackmail (the various police wanted
well over $1000 in total).  The problem seems to be specific to local
police -- I had no problems with the federal police or the military,
who were all very professional.

In addition to this problem, the trip with the students was originally
planned to go to Guatemala and Mexico but my university forbade us
from entering Mexico due to the flu.  Before that, I talked to the
travel company with which I was working in Guatemala regarding costs
for various things.  When I asked about border fees with Mexico, the
reply was, "It depends on who is working that day."  I have had no
such problems with Guatemalan borders and the Salvador border was
refreshingly fast and easy.  When I discussed these various problems
with friends and acquaintances, it became apparent that the problems
with Mexican police and border officials is fairly endemic -- many
people shared their own horror stories.  I realize that Mexico is
dealing with some serious problems right now, but if Mexican officials
want to increase tourism then they really need to crack down on
corruption.  I am going to fly to Guatemala in the future and I don't
know that I would take students to Mexico unless we fly into Mexico
and do not cross any borders.  It's too difficult and frustrating,
particularly when neighboring and nearby countries seem to be free (or
largely free) of such problems.  Perhaps I'm just bitter right now,
having just returned a few days ago, but these are real problems --
beyond the flu.
Matt

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